11/11/2022 0 Comments Hemera disassembly![]() ![]() Although the default tension set seems to be fine, there is no easy way to adjust it if you need to do so. One thing that did notice is that there seems to be no way to adjust the tensioning of the extrusion mechanism. It does mean that at such point you need to disassemble the extruder, so I’m glad it is so easy to do so. I’m sure this “issue” is not unique to this H2 - it probably happens to any other extruder of similar design. If the TPU has nowhere to go, it is grinded by the extruder. One thing I did notice while printing TPU and I didn’t have my Z-offset right just yet and that if the nozzle is far too low on the bed: the TPU, which is gripped very well by the H2, has nowhere to go while the extruder attempts to extrude it.Ī bit of TPU that was grinded by the extruder because I had my Z-offset too low and the filament had nowhere to go. The other part of the gearbox and the stepper motor. The gears are made of hardened stainless steel, so they should probably hold up pretty well with abrasive filaments too. The gears both push the filament through the hotend. I calibrated the extrusion steps on my H2 and the 932 steps/mm is spot-on for me.Īlso note that the extruder gears are dual drive. The tiny stepper probably needs this gear ratio to get enough torque for pushing filament through in case of you would get a jam. This doesn’t matter however: the stepper motor on the H2 doesn’t emit any noticeable sound. This means that your e-steps (extruder steps/mm) are near 932 steps/mm (as opposed to just 92 steps/mm for a default Creality-style extruder). The extruder part with the gears and the hot end. The way you will mount the H2 to you printer also makes it easy to disassemble it in case you need to do so. This required some additional effort thanks to how Creality designed the mounting system of the hot-end - but I managed to do it anyway. ![]() Hemera disassembly how to#Earlier I wrote on how to mount it to the Creality CR-6. In my case, on the Creality CR-6 SE, besides the breakout board I also have the strain gauge leveling system. Note that all the available mounting holes makes it easy to design a mount for it. If you have a CR-style printer by which the cabling runs to a breakout board, after which it runs to the motherboard through a proprietary cable, you need to buy some crimping tools to get the cabling at the correct length. There is also a complete CAD model available so you can start designing you BIQU H2 mount while you wait for it to arrive. There are mounts available from the BigTreeTech website and also dozens available on Thingiverse. Hemera disassembly manual#If you have a “regular” 3D printer with manual bed leveling, a BLTouch, capacitive sensor, and the cabling running all the way to the motherboard then mounting this extruder is a matter of printing a mount and doing the cabling. You can use it for mounting it to your printer, adding part cooling and mount an Adafruit Neopixe. On each of the four sides, there are two M3 screw holes for bolts. The BIQU H2 compared to a standard AA battery Mounting itīIQU has made this extruder very easy to mount.
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